Spirit of Toronto back on May 10th!
Happy New Year to fellow likeminded, single minded single malt devotees. You’ll notice that after a long hiatus Single Minded is back as an e-letter and combined with updates for Spirit of Toronto, Toronto’s Annual Whisky Gala at Roy Thomson Hall.
It would seem that “Never say never” is the order of the day for 2008: here I am looking for Peychaud’s bitters to make whisky cocktails, raving about [some] Canadian whisky, and publishing Single Minded electronically. These e-notes start out with ramblings and updates as we plan this year’s show.
Right out of the gate, our masterclass line-up is shaping up to be stellar, including something for peat freaks, cocktail mavens and true single malt snobs. In particular I was happy to reconnect with my friends at The Macallan and Highland Park, the latter who have confirmed that they will be presenting a new release of Highland Park 40 Year Old , in itself great for bragging rights among even seasoned aficionados (”Hmmm… complex to be sure, but nothing like the Highland Park 40 Year Old I had earlier this year…”) That’s right, this is an exciting new release from Scotland’s most northerly distillery and you’re reading about it first from Single Minded. No other details for now but as soon as I receive a sample I will pass along my firsthand impressions. Yes, a difficult job, but somebody has to do it.
Those of you who have attended Spirit of Toronto masterclasses in the past are probably wondering how early you’ll be lining up to taste such rare and exquisite elixir. I bring you tidings of great joy: we are introducing a system for masterclass seating this year that should virtually eliminate the lengthy queues from years past—more details to follow.
A key component to proper sampling is the Blender’s Malt Whisky Glass provided to guests at Spirit of Toronto, specially imported for the occasion from the Glencairn Crystal Studio in Scotland. Last year we sold off extra glasses at the show and there are still 6 boxes remaining. If anyone is interested in purchasing a box of 12 glasses, I can pack and ship this to you at a cost of $120 all-inclusive within Canada—click here to order. Unfortunately the cost of shipping really doesn’t make sense for less than a box of twelve, so I would ask those of you looking to buy just one or two glasses to wait until this year’s show.
In the meantime, read on for a few suggestions on how to pass the time til May 10…
Forty Creek Barrel Select
Why do I even bother? Cheap (it’s January after all), Canadian and a plastic screwtop to boot… let me guess, you wouldn’t even offer this to your brother-in-law. But with the steady
disappearance of quality, affordable single malts from LCBO shelves, it’s truly your loss as Forty Creek Barrel Select is now probably the most flavourful whisky you will buy for under $40 in Ontario, Johnnie Walker Black notwithstanding.
Forget C.C. and anything else you thought you knew about so-called Canadian “rye”: Forty Creek is a méritage of 3 honest-to-goodness whiskies made from straight, peppery rye (the real deal), malted barley (yes, like the stuff they make in Scotland) and Indian corn (which would be called bourbon if we were in Kentucky). Being both a winemaker and distiller, Forty Creek’s John Hall knows what he’s doing when it comes to blending and wood maturation; after all, Forty Creek is finished in ex-casks of Oloroso sherry that John makes himself. Those of you who have attended John’s tasting of his “component” whiskies already know what I’m talking about—the rest of you can only hope that John presents another masterclass at this year’s Spirit of Toronto.
If you’ve already picked up a bottle of Forty Creek Small Batch Reserve (LCBO $59.95) then I’m preaching to the converted. John Hall started distilling at Kittling Ridge in 1992, earmarking the maturing casks in his warehouse that were developing an exceptional taste profile. Fifteen years on, and John has blended a selection of his sweetheart casks into a limited edition anniversary bottling.
The nose in itself is a stunner with copper right off the stills, before the oak and spicy rye take a stand. Interestingly, standard Forty Creek Barrel Select has always leaned towards rye (real rye) but this Small Batch Reserve seems to be firmly weighted towards the bourbon, I mean the single Indian corn whisky that John distills, lending a sugary, crème brûlée sweetness that is heavy on the brûlée, and spiked with the prickle of pepper, orange rind and coffee grounds. A teasing, spicy finish rounds out a true Canadian classic that I’d happily pit head to head against any small batch bourbon. The only thing that nags at me is wondering what this would have been like at cask strength. In truth, I doubt this would be to the taste of Forty Creek’s regular audience, so I guess we’ll never know.
—Official Bottling by Kittling Ridge at 40% abv
A lesser person would hold back on such a goodie given the precious few cases of quality, affordable single malt whisky that make their way to the colonies. But seeing as my friends at Ian MacLeod were generous enough to bequeath to me not one but two bottles, I would be remiss not to spread the gospel about the incredible Islay punch packed by this cannonball of a malt, and fabulously priced at that.
I could provide you with some tasting notes, or you could simply read the embossing on Smokehead’s smartly packaged tin can as it’s all there: Powerful, Robust, Toffee, Harmonious, Briny, Fresh, Phenolic (yes!), Boisterous, Fruity, Rich (yes!), Monstrous, Explosive, Intense (uh huh!)), Deep, Balanced, Kippers, Seaweedy (yes!), Peaty (bring it on!), Smoky (duh!), Vigorous, Outrageous, and finally… MASSIVE. Whew! I think I got it all, and certainly Ian MacLeod Distillers has gotten it because this is one of the best examples of whisky marketing I’ve ever seen, and I’m not usually inclined to regurgitate the packaging: “A really vigorous whisky not for the faint hearted”. Yep, that’s right.
Despite my unashamed praise of the creative genius behind this tour de force, the marketing suits still gave me the usual testy retort when I asked about Smokehead’s provenance (”…and it’s still none of your business!”) My best guess is a turbo-charged vatting of Caol Ila’s smokiest casks; perhaps those of you who still have a bottle of Duncan Taylor’s Auld Reekie 12 Year Old (LCBO passim) can do a side-by-side comparison and let me know if you agree?
Tip: Watch out for a 1-litre bottling of Smokehead Extra Rare in duty-free shops, complete with a hessian drawstring bag. How cool is that?
—Bottled by Ian McLeod at 43% abv
Balblair 1989
Didn’t get what you really wanted this Christmas? Or perhaps you exercised a bit of restraint last month? Have no shame in re-gifting? In which case you saved a few bucks and aren’t averse to a bit of a winter splurge, a little something to stave off the cold. For you my virtuous friend, I have no hesitation in recommending this 1989 vintage of Balblair, an absolute gem of a Highland malt.I am continually perplexed as to why so little Inver House whisky makes it this way: An Cnoc, Balblair, Balmenach and Old Pulteney are all first-rate distilleries with a
fine stable of bottlings to choose from. This Balblair 1989 is a case in point, a deep, rich malt from ex-bourbon casks with a complex, doughy nose, a spicy, playful palate of demerara sugar, nutmeg and clove. This is a confident, assured malt that goes about its business without flash or gimmicks, the strong silent type that can play Gary Cooper to my Marlene Dietrich any day. With so many whiskies tarted up in wine casks from Amarone to Zinfadel, how very innovative to bottle the unadulterated taste of distilled barley.
Just a handful of bottles (14 cases) have made their way to Toronto, Ottawa and Windsor so this is yet another case of blink and you miss it. At $141.75 this is half again what you’d pay elsewhere but—free market economies notwithstanding—this is nonetheless a good value compared to overall pricing at the LCBO.
Tip: Friends or relatives in NB? Have them pick up a bottle for $86.96.
—Official Bottling by Inver House at 43% abv
Robert Burns Single Malt
Robbie Burns Day is almost upon us so as certain as the days grow longer, Vintages trots out its perennial fave, the Robert Burns Single Malt from the clever folk at Isle of Arran, the only distillery authorized by the World Burns Federation to use his name and signature in promoting a whisky—bring on the haggis!An export-only product that you won’t find anywhere in Scotland, this is wisely described in the Vintages circular as “a perfect introduction for the uninitiated” [insert shudder here]. A genteel whisky if I ever tasted one, but in truth dumbed down by comparison to the top notch malt Arran has been bottling for a few years now. Soft, sweet and nondescript on the palate, the nose is actually the most expressive part of this whole affair, a whiff of Arran from yesteryear,
yeasty sweet with the sour notes of green apples and underripe fruit. What more can I say? Tis a lovely tipple indeed, as lovely as a cuppa with crumpets and jam, (not to mention an ideal breakfast malt, should you dare to be so risqué!)
Despite its timid nature, I actually like this mild little apéritif of a malt, even if I dispute the notion that the “uninitiated” should have their palates patronized by meek and inoffensive whisky. Happily I have a solution for everyone toasting the Bard this week: the more adventurous among you will check out Ian MacLeod’s first rate bastard bottling of Lagavulin, the Dun Bheagan Islay Single Malt 8 Year Old (LCBO $44.60). And those of you pouring for guests who like the idea of Scotch better than
Scotch itself can have the Robert Burns Single Malt on hand. Ironic, given that this is perfect for those who blanch at the thought of heart, liver and lungs encased in a sheep’s stomach…
—Distillery Bottling by
Isle of Arran at 40% abv
Popularity: 35% [?]